Mount Bosworth
Field, BC
August 6, 2004

In Mount Bosworth we found more thrills than we bargained for. That's because we erred in following the directions in the book. Although it called for going left after getting above the treeline, we didn't realize we had to climb well above the treeline before heading left. As a result we missed the first gully and we ended up in the third gully, not the second gully where the final ascent is normally made. Instead of being east of the summit block, we found ourselves in a steep gully west of the summit. We did a far more exciting ascent with 130 m of difficult scrambling and still made it to the top in good time.

When we reached the main gully below the summit where it branches off into a number of narrow gullies higher up, we knew we were off track. Overhead a black band of rock held huge cornices. We crossed the main gully to the branch gully farthest west, away from under the fearsome cornices. The gully started off as a deep V, so steep we couldn't reach the bottom and had to first climb up one side.

This narrow gully was mostly a hands-on, straight-up ascent. I would have to rate it as difficult: the ascent of this gully was more difficult than downclimbing the crux in the book and longer: over 100 m. Fortunately it was largely solid rock. It was great scrambling and lots of it. What detracted was that we weren't sure if we could reach the summit. Even more worrisome was having to downclimb this steep and tricky gully if we were cliffed out. On the way up, we found a carabiner attached to a strap from some long-ago ascent. It wasn't an encouraging sign as we had no rope.

Eventually we crawled out of the gully at the base of the black rock band where we breathed a sign of relief. Above us was another 30 m of difficult scrambling although not as technical as the gully.

We soon found ourselves next to the end of the cornice with only a brown rock band to ascend. After scrambling up it, we breathed another sigh of relief. We appeared on an open talus slope that led to a hump west of the summit. This hump, where there were remains of a tower or some such apparatus, was connected to the summit block by a short ridge below a cliff face. Fortunately there is a crack that could be easily downclimbed to reach the connecting ridge. Minutes later we were standing next to the summit cairn.

From the summit we spotted cairns headed down the east ridge. Returning via the west ridge would involve a long, slow, difficult downclimb. The quicker, easier task was to follow the cairns – the book route – which we did. Compared to the ascent up the gully, the book route was a cakewalk.

MOVIE (posted on YouTube)

KML Track


View of Mount Bosworth from the highway the morning of the ascent. We climbed up the
black rock band just left of the low cornice.


Our approximate ascent route up as viewed from Narao Peak


Heading to the gully near the start


Dinah in the gully


Looking back


Now off route: typical scrambling in the narrow gully below the west ridge


Steep rock everywhere


Cool rock but scary: we didn't want to downclimbing it if forced to turn back


At the top of the gully


At the base of the black rock band and on the left side of the gully we just climbed, I
checked around the corner but we decided to climb up to the right of this steep section.


Our route after coming out of the gully. We ended up next to the cornice. (In the previous photo,
I was standing on the shoulder left of the arrow.) The rock bands were actually easier to ascend
than the gully! (mouse over to back up)


Looking for a way up the black rock band


We reached the cornice and last rock band


After a prolonged, serious scramble, Dinah smiles after reaching safe ground


Mounts Niles and Daly


Downclimbing a crack to get to the summit ridge (mouse over for a close-up)


A few steps away from the summit


On the summit


Heading down from the summit


Scrambling down the proper route


Checking out a rock buttress (mouse over to back up)


Looking down at Ross Lake


Looking back on the descent


82 N/8 Lake Louise

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