Angels Landing

Angels Landing
Zion National Park, Utah
April 20, 2014
Distance: 6.9 km (4.3 mi)
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 557 m (1827 ft)

One can't spend much time hiking around Las Vegas before hearing about Angels Landing in Zion National Park. The classic climb offers spectacular canyon views for hikers willing to negotiate an exciting, exposed ridge. Despite several deaths on the trail, the hike is extremely popular.

Details of the route can be found on Jim Boone's page, but I'll describe it in a nutshell. The hike follows a broad, sandy path along the Virgin River before climbing up a series of paved switchbacks to Refrigerator Canyon. After following the long, level stretch of the canyon, the trail resumes climbing using tight switchbacks called “Walter's Wiggles” that lead to Scout Overlook. Hikers comfortable with exposure can go on to climb the narrow ridge to Angels Landing.

It took Dinah and me three hours to drive from Las Vegas to Zion. On the day we went, the park was packed with visitors. I heard we could expect crowds anytime, but good weather coupled with an Easter Sunday may have brought out more.

The parking lot was already full at 10:30 am, but we were able to park on the roadside just a couple of minutes walk to the visitor centre where we caught a shuttle bus. 23 minutes later we arrived at the Grotto Picnic Area, the trailhead for Angels Landing. We started up the trail and soon reached the lower switchbacks. Unfortunately, painful blisters from recent hikes shortened Dinah's trip, and she was forced to turn back before Refrigerator Canyon. I continued to Scout Overlook.

Although the Overlook is a nice place to stop, intrepid hikers will want to climb higher. Sturdy chains and solid steps carved into sandstone rock have tamed the half-mile, devilish route to Angels Landing, making it a cakewalk for experienced scramblers and relatively easy for even casual hikers. I saw an eight-year-old girl with her father as well as a couple of hikers that appeared to be in their 70s.

Unlike the broad path to Scout Landing, though, the trail to Angels Landing is so narrow in places that passing people is difficult if not impossible. At spots where only one person at a time can pass, bottlenecks formed. When I reached the saddle where it narrows to two feet across and drops hundreds of feet on either side, I had to stop to allow 20 hikers to pass. In other places, it was possible to leave the safety of the chains and skirt around the hikers clinging to them, although it sometimes meant walking gingerly on an airy edge. But despite the congestion, there were no mishaps, and people were good-natured and accommodated others as best they could.

After threading up the narrow, crowded trail, I was relieved to find a spacious summit. There was no solitude here, but there was room enough to look at the spectacular scenery without worrying about someone dogging my steps. And I could take photos without someone crossing in front of my camera. But I didn't stay long on Angels Landing. I knew Dinah would be waiting for me at the trailhead.

As I made my way back down, I realized that despite the crowds I had enjoyed Angels Landing. I heard of people returning to do it again and again and again. And I can understand why.

The trail begins along the Virgin River