Altyn Peak

Altyn Peak
Glacier National Park, Montana
August 1, 2009

The long drive to Glacier National Park left us with half a day to climb Altyn Peak. Following the route descriptions in Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park, we wanted to ascend the mountain using the South America route and descend via the Western Saddle route. But the brief descriptions left us scratching our heads. Although we didn't use either route, Sonny, Dinah and I summited and had a rewarding trip.

We had no trouble finding the trailhead: it's just past the junction at Swiftcurrent Falls. We parked at a pull-out past the trailhead. The steep, unrelenting trail follows alongside a drainage that cuts through a cliff band. Past that, open slopes stretch to a cliff band below the summit ridge.

We saw three possibilities to reach the ridge: circumvent the cliff band left, go up a weakness in the middle or ascend a bowl right of the summit. The South America route suggested going up the east end, but it was hidden from view.

As we drew closer, the features of the cliff band resolved into sharper focus and climbing the bowl looked probable. On closer inspection, steep rocks barred the way, save for a short chimney. I reached it with Sonny close behind. Meanwhile, Dinah passed us to check the east end route that the book described. Leaving the chimney for Sonny to explore, I followed Dinah to the east end.

Unfortunately the east end appeared too difficult and exposed to attempt, especially without helmets. But since Sonny made the summit from the chimney, Dinah and I backtracked to it and soon joined him on top.

After a long stay on the summit, we headed to the Altyn-Henkel col. We looked for – and expected – an easy way down from there, but it was not to be. A long, circuitous route around steep slopes eventually brought us back to the drainage in the cliff band. We could have done without going to the saddle, but ascending Altyn Peak was an enjoyable scramble.

Sonny's Trip Report
KML and GPX Tracks

Altyn Peak (mouse over for our approximate ascent route)

Heading up the trail

The trail follows a drainage that breaks through the cliff band

Nearing the break in the cliffs

Sonny and Dinah took the left side of the drainage

I took the right

Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine below

The summit came into view

Sonny pauses after we climbed above the cliff band

Yellow buckwheat (mouse over) blankets the slope

When we ran into Andrew and Mark Nugara the following morning in St Mary's, we learned that while we were climbing Altyn, they were climbing Mount Wilbur (right, mouse over), ascending the east face seen here