The Fortress and Gusty Peak
October 9, 2004

Dinah and I decided to climb The Fortress and Gusty Peak in one shot. The ascent up The Fortress was worthwhile and straightforward, and we had no problems. But Gusty Peak was a 540 m slog up miserable scree, and it was made worse by a snowstorm.

I had heard of parties turned back because they were unable to find their way up Gusty even in good weather. So as we climbed above the basin on our way to The Fortress, I was careful to note Gusty's route from the basin. It was especially helpful since after summiting The Fortress, visibility was reduced to a few dozen metres and we ascended Gusty in a whiteout. It took nearly two hours to climb from the basin to the summit of Gusty Peak; snow-covered rocks and blowing snow slowed our progress.

Views on both summits were obscured so panoramas weren't possible.

MOVIE (posted on YouTube)
KML Track

Hiking to Chester Lake

Leaving Chester Lake behind

Looking up the valley; The Fortress is hidden in clouds. On the way back, the valley
would be under snow (mouse over).

Ascending the Chester-Fortress col

Looking up after reaching the col

The weather turns ugly

It's just a hike from the col to The Fortress summit block

Some scrambling just before the summit

On the summit of The Fortress

Visibility was extremely poor when we started up Gusty so I was counting on my earlier
observation of the ascent route on our way up The Fortress

Slogging up the endless scree on Gusty Peak

Almost on the summit of Gusty Peak

On the summit

Heading down the scree from Gusty Peak

Back in the valley below The Fortress

Heading back down the valley

82 J/14 Spray Lakes

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