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Mount Warspite
Kananaskis, Alberta
September 12, 2006

When Raff asked me to climb Mount Warspite on Tuesday afternoon, I had my doubts. The Scrambles book made this mountain sound like a serious endeavour: 8-12 hours and Raff wanted to start in the afternoon! But He had heard it was a moderate scramble that could be done in a short time. He clinched my interest when he told me Tuesday was the last nice day before the weather turned cold and wet. I agreed to join him.

We arrived at the Black Prince trailhead and set off at a brisk pace at 2:45 PM. It was warm and the weather looked promising although smoke haze dulled distant views. We moved quickly up the trail to the hanging valley. At the end sat Mount Warspite, commanding attention. It took longer than I expected to cross the valley and reach the big gully leading to the col. Ascending the gully wasn't easy. The soft dirt was mixed with loose rocks and was worse than scree.

We hugged the right side as it afforded some solid rock, but it steepened considerably as we ascended. We ended up in a narrow side gully that wasn't safe: a loosed rock could funnel down to a partner below. The broad main gully is safer to ascend for parties.

When Raff appeared directly below me, I was able to slip over to the next gully on my left. In this gully the rock was even more crumbly and I inadvertently launched debris harmlessly down. I worked my way left hoping to get into the main gully but the ridge of rock I was on dropped down steeply. I continued ascending and hoped the ridge would flatten out. Eventually it did and I made it to the edge of the main gully. I gave a thumbs-up to Raff to let him know the way was clear.

From there we followed a sheep trail in the soft, black scree that led to the col. From the col Warspite looks stately, like a towering cathedral. It didn't look possible to scramble up so when Raff said, "Let's check it out," I mused that he might have said, "Let's chicken out ." We went to check it out.

From the col, Kane's route description was clear and accurate. We ascended left of the chimney. After reaching a shoulder things began to look better. We did much of the ascent simply by following trails in the scree, although a couple of tricky spots merit a difficult rating. The worst section was a crumbling rock band, but after searching around we found solid rock to scramble up.

At one point, where we failed to consult the description, Raff scrambled up a steep rock section. He was already committed to climbing up, but I turned back and hiked up the ridge to meet him. A few minutes later we were on the summit.

We spent 20 minutes taking pictures and looking around before deciding it was time to go. We retraced our steps to the col. From the col we followed the animal tracks until they disappeared. Then we made our own tracks in the scree of the main gully until we reached the bottom. Daylight had faded to the point my camera baulked at taking photos. We reached the trail and left the hanging valley.

To our surprise it rained for a while. Soon after the rain ceased, it became too dark to see well and we brought out headlamps. For the next 45 minutes, they would light our way back to the car.

Mount Warspite is not the long, difficult scramble I had expected. Except for a couple tricky sections, it's largely an enjoyable, scenic hike and a short one at that.

KML Track


Warspite Lake has almost disappeared in the dry weather. We headed for the SW corner of the lake where we found the trail.


The trail leads to the hanging valley ahead


Fall colours are appearing (click for a larger image)


Looking back at Warspite Lake


The trail passes a striking rock point


Warspite cascades are only a trickle


At the end of the trail, Mount Warspite looms ahead (click for a larger image)


Looking back across the hanging valley


Approaching the gully


Starting up the gully


It may be possible to scramble up the rock ridge on the left


Raff starts up the next gully (click for a larger image)


Raff claws his way up the gully. It's steeper than it looks and the ground is hard (mouse over)


Raff reaches the main gully


View of Mount Warspite from the col is foreshortened


View after climb ling a short way from the col


Raff studies a cliff band rife with loose rock. There's actually a path worn along its base. We found a spot near the middle of the path to ascend.


Looking down from the cliff band


Raff scrambled straight up from the gully below the summit while I walked up the ridge on the left


Arriving on the summit


On the summit


Mount Invincible appears on our left as we descend


Raff appears to be running below the rocky towers


The setting sun turns the rocks orange


Coming down the cliff band


Raff climbs down to the col. Mild exposure and loose rock here. (click for a larger image)


Halfway down the gully, the black dirt gives way to gray scree


Daylight is going fast


The last photo I took


82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes

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